June 17 – Buttercup routes

Today is sunny with very few clouds.  So we decided that we should see as much of the best parts of the islands as possible while the weather is good.  No matter where you go the Faroe Islands are beautiful and the drives are scenic.  However, those routes designated as Buttercup routes are supposed to be especially scenic. 

The first stop was for photos of the garden of one of the little houses we pass going from our hotel room to the hotel proper here in Gjógv.  They have certainly decorated it extensively.

Then we drove over to the other side of Gjógv and took a short hike up the side of the cliff to get some photos of the town and the cliffs beyond.  Very pretty.

The statue is a memorial to fishermen lost at sea. There were plaques behind the statue listing the names of those lost. The statue would be of the wives and children left behind as they gaze out to sea.

We also walked down to the church…

and into the village.  There is a little stream that runs through the center of the village. There appeared to be a portion that was blocked by a small dam.  And in the pond that was created there was a tiny island and some rafts made of split plastic drums.

Yellow flowers are in bloom all over town and the hillside.  We assume they are buttercups.

After enjoying Gjógv we headed out on our first drive that took us to the town of Eiði.  Magnificent coastline along the way.

From there we headed down the Sundini Fjord.  

On the opposite side of the fjord we had good views of Fossa, the largest waterfall in the Faroes.

Once at the end of the fjord we headed back up the other side all the way to the end to the little village of Tjørnuvik. 

The village is at the end of the fjord and was absolutely charming.

The information sign indicated that it is a great location for extreme surfing.  However, the day we were there it looked pretty calm.

While there we saw another bridal photo shoot going on. 

In the distance you could see sea stacks off the end of the island of Eysturoy.  The stacks are named Risin (The Giant) and Kellingin (the Witch).  Legend has it that the rocks are fossils of an old woman and a giant who tried to drag the Faroe Islands back to Iceland.  The rising sun surprised them and they were turned to stone.  Love the old legends.

As we were headed out of the valley we saw a fishing boat surrounded by sea birds.

On the way back down the fjord (almost all of these drives are on dead end roads) we stopped briefly at the little village of Haldorsvik for a few photos, including the interesting church.

Then we had some excitement.  The roads are quite narrow in many places in the Faroes but generally there are frequent pullouts and everyone drives reasonably cautiously.  However we met a speeding Audi that did not slow down and managed to clip our car.  Gasps all around (and a bit of swearing on Paul’s part).  We backed up and pulled over just as the driver of the other car came back (he had needed to travel on down the road before finding a place to turn around).  Turned out he personally knew the owner of the rental car company, placed a call, arranged to take full responsibility for the minor damage to the car (or so he said, we don’t understand any Faroese so had to take his word on what he was saying to the person on the other end of the phone call).  After exchanging info we parted ways.

Next stop was Fossa Waterfall.  From the research we did we should have been able to hike up to higher tiers of the falls.  However, if there was an actual path there it was invisible to our eyes so we passed on the hike.

We were pretty unsuccessful in looking for a place for lunch and eventually, in another really small village, stumbled upon a hand written sign for a Farmer Café.  Turned out it was in the lower level of a fame home and they had one choice of food, fish soup and lamb rolls.  Since we don’t eat either we opted for the dessert, some of the best waffles with whipped cream we have had in some time.

The farmer’s wife explained that these types of “eateries” are an extension of the Faroese tradition of Guest Hospitality, of opening their homes to passing travelers (but now for pay).  They had a great display of posters about the raising (and slaughter) of sheep…which is the mainstay of their farm’s income.  We had a great visit and we really enjoyed the stop.

Then it was back on the road for a beautiful drive...

to the miniscule village of Saksun.  We parked our car there and hiked down to Pullurin Bay.  Beautiful hike,

beautiful bay,

and beautiful waterfalls.

We walked almost to the sea. At high tide one must be careful to not get cut off as the narrow gorge where the river empties into the ocean can become completely filled with water. We were there at low tide. Lots of black sand beach around the bay.

Next was another Buttercup route to the village of Elduvick at the far end of another peninsula on Eysturoy Island.

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Video of sheep "playing"
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And then more driving to another village, Dúvugarðar, on another peninsula.  The views along the Oyndarfjøður were also great. 

Our drive to the next hotel took us along Dyndarfjordur. More great views...

and quaint, tiny towns.

We ended our drives today in the town of Klaksvik, the second largest town in the Faroes, population of about 5,000.  And not very many restaurants.  We ended up eating at the snack bar at a gas station.